The Marrakech I love,

The Tanners                                                                                                                    by Mona Gill                                                                                                                                       

Poufs, Babouches, choukaras, these words possess a sunny feel. Add the refrain "come on, come on, just for the pleasure of your eyes" and you have a scene from the souk, a scene that could take place in front of the Bab Debbagh in Marrakech. The history of leather in Morrocco begins in the 15th century. Everything started with levant, a name that was given at that time to skins imported from Morocco essentially to be used in bookbinding. Levant was made from goatskin, which was particularly appreciated for it suppleness. During  this period the leather was worked in tanneries basins and ditches where the process  of brushing and rinning the skins was carried out. In Morocco, a number can still be found in Marrakech and Fez. Here, the industrial process has not yet throttled the life out of the traditionnal craftsmen. In the Red City the premises are situated near Bab Debbagh (the Tanners's gate), more precisely to the north east of the medina. If your nose starts to itch, you cann't be far away: the smell of the leather acts as an irritant. Guided tours to the hearth of the tanneries are effered with pleasure. As the visit throws light on the processes of the age-old fabrication your curiosity will no doubt be satisfied. Leave behind industry and its conveyor belt machinery! A little suggestion: if you want to avoid the unpleasant odours, breathe in the smell of a sprig of fresh mint. At Bab Debbagh, the craftsmen carry out precise tasks in the pure tradition of their ancestral craft. They have carned an international reputation. First, the hair must be removed. The unrefined skins' (cow, lamb, sheep, camel) specialist dips the raw material in lime to remove all air and wool. Then a bath of animal urine and pigeon droppings softens the skin. The skin, white and viscous, is now ready for tanning. After a soaking in a soluyion of bark and mimosa flowers, it becomes leather and has a slightly ochre appearance (in its natural state). The leather worker now takes over. Traditional processes are stil used in dyeing, with saffron for yellow pigment, poppies for red and indigo for blue. Once the skins are dyed, they are stretched ant then laid out in the sun before  going to be gilded, embroidered, etc. Spoilt of choice Your heart may be won over by the article indispensable to every Moroccan living room, the pouf. Although usualy made of goatskin, it can also be made in calf or sheep skin. The  stalls of the souk are stocked with a huge variety of poufs: round or square, dyed or blended, sewn from strips of leather or embroidered with silk thread. You can  also discover luggage, office accessories, bags, wallets, belts, saddles, choukaras,(besaces), either for yourself or to offers as gifts. However, the star of the leather goods has to be the babouche. To help you choose from amongst the 1,001 pairs here is a quick lesson on how to wear the babouche: it is worn with pointed toes in the town; a square-toed  shoe should be worn in the fields; preferably yellow for men. For an eccentric touch, why not choose a pair with pompoms ir in fluorescent pink. And the final test: fold your babouche so the toe touches the heel, then let it go. The shoe should revert to its original shape. Now you will have no problem folding them neatly into your suitcase

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Many thanks to Mona Gill